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Istobal M7.1 Soft touch automatic car wash system

Supply by wwwSCEcorp.com A basic range rollover but with a special quality that sets it apart. Its six programs can be chosen from a bank of 40 ...

$23,500 for a 2008 Honda Civic?

Hi guys, I just purchased the following car on Saturday for $23,500 out the door at 2.9% APR for 60 months:

CAR:
2008 Honda Civic EX Automatic

ACCESSORIES:
Honda Security System
Tinting with lifetime warranty
Door Edge Guards
Mud Guards
Moon Roof Visor
Wheel Locks

Other Goodies
100,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Platinum Warranty
5 Years Gap Insurance
3 Years or 35,000 miles of Oil Changes with Car Wash
Road Hazard Warranty

All of the above and the Tax, Title and all the fees was included in the price of $23,500 out the door + I got a 2.9% APR for 60 months. Did I get a good deal?


The Civic is good but for that price you could've gotten a good mid-sized car with nearly everything you just mentioned especially the accessories. That stuff you can get on the aftermarket for about half the price of the dealer.
Are the "other" stuff worth over $3000? Well, road hazard is free on some new cars, oil changes w/ car wash are about $30-35 bucks a pop so you got around $350 dollars worth so is the warranty and Insurance worth around $3000? Plus, they still charged you 2.9%? Is the car fully-loaded at least?
Hope you got a GPS out of it as well.


Sounds good to me. Only thing is you should have got a manual transmission, but thats just me ;D.


look up this car here for the answer
Official Kelley Blue Book www.kbb.com


Not sure what state you live in so not sure how much you paid in tax. National average for the car itself is about $19,100 so let's just say you paid out $4400 for everything else.

Some stuff you probably could have gotten for free from the dealer if you asked/negotiated properly...like the door guards, mud guards, visor & wheel locks. The warranty is a waste because Honda's are pretty reliable way past 100K miles already. The salesperson probably sold you on that one and made a nice profit...you'll probably never need it.

Why do you need gap insurance? Unless you're a pretty bad driver and expect to total your car within the first year or two of driving, that's a waste of money too. The whole point of gap insurance is to cover the difference of what your car is worth and how much the insurance company will pay you for the car if it's totalled (which will be less because your car depreciates once you drive off the lot).

The 3 yr/35K oil changes means you get 7 free oil changes...because most people change their oil every 5K miles. You could easily get this done at any Jiffy Lube for like $20 each time...I hope you didn't pay more than $150 for that "perk".

You didn't need to buy the Road Hazard Warranty either...you could have gotten that from your insurance company for about $10 extra added to your policy that covers $50 in towing and roadside assistance.

I hope I didn't burst your bubble. But you really should have brought someone with you to purchase the car. It's harder for the dealers to rip you off if someone else is there to watch your back and ask questions you might not be prepared to ask.

I hope you enjoy your Honda Civic for many years to come!


Pretty good deal.. Could have better mileage


for that price I would have got the Si....it looks like $400+ a month for a civic....just too high for me

CAR PEOPLE PLEASE HELP?

Hello Im buying a 2005 SLK350 Convertible Used Black. With Beige leather Interior. its costing me 27,000. It has 36,818 Miles
VIN: WDBWK56F95F059757
Model Year: 2005
Exterior: Black
Interior: Beige Leather
Mileage: 36,818 Miles
Body Style: Convertible
Transmission: Automatic
Fuel Type: Gasoline
Stock Number: 32433U
Comfort
Retractable Hardtop, Leather Upholstery, Leather Steering Wheel, Leather Shift Knob, Aluminum Trim, 8-Way Manually Adjustable Front Seats, AM/FM Weatherband Radio with In-Dash CD Player, 9-Speaker Sound System, Multifunction Steering Wheel, 2-Section Multifunction Display, Wind Deflector, Cruise Control, Dual-Zone Automatic Climate Control, Power Windows with Express Down, Tinted Glass, Dual-Heated Outside Mirrors, Heated Windshield Washing System, Vanity Mirrors, Dual-Front Cup Holders, Cargo Net, Programmable Remote Locking System, Integrated Fog Lamps
Safety
TeleAid Emergency Calling and Communication System, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) with Occupant Sensor, Dual-Front Airbags, Integrated Head/Thorax Airbags, Dual-Knee Airbags, 3-Point Seatbelts with Pre-Tensioners and Force Limiters, Dual-Integrated Roll Bar, Electronic Stability Program (ESP), 4-Wheel ABS Disc Brakes, Brake Assist System (BAS), Anti-theft Alarm System with Engine Immobilizer, Steel Reinforced Cabin with Front and Rear Crumple Zones, Night Security Illumination, BabySmart Child Seat Recognition System
Performance
268 HorsePower @ 6000 rpm, 258 lb-ft Torque @ 2400-5000 rpm, 6-Speed Manual Transmission, Front Suspension 3-Link Independent, Rear Suspension 5-Arm Independent Multi-Link, Front Brakes 13.0" Ventilated and Perforated with 4-Piston Caliper, Rear Brakes 11.4" Solid Discs with 2-Piston Caliper, Power Assisted Steering, 17" 10-Spoke Alloy Wheels






WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK IS IT A GOOD DEAL OR WHAT THANKS!


It might be but what brand is it and are you buying it from a small used car dealer

1999 chrysler 300m air conditioner problem?

We were washing our car and my wife and kids stayed inside and we had it on. We were at a local car wash. After I had it all cleaned up when I got back in the air conditioner had stopped working. The snowflake symbol shows up on the automatic air conditioner screen but does not blow out cold air. I recently added refrigerant to my wifes santa fe and thought I would check the low pressure on my 300m. I had the car running and full cold air inside and the pressure was 100psi. I dont know how to check to see if the compressor is engaged or whatever( I keep seeing that to check if its engaged). To me it seems that its not getting pulled into the system. The air(hot tx air) blows hard but isnt that helpful. If anyone has any advice or helpful hints or things to check it would be much appreciated. Please dont just jump to some ignorant response, please be helpful. thank you
the pressure does not change with the gauge attached to it and i don't hear anything kick in. I will check all wiring, Ive already checked fuses.


install Gage start car, turn on a/c, if the pressure changes the compressor engaged .if you had 100lb. when you hooked the Gage up and it went down [low pressure side] the compressor kicked in . when a compressor kicks in the pressure at the low side goes down, high side goes up , you should hear the the clutch kick in if you have pressure .if you don't ,you have a control or wire problem .check wire connections at the receiver dryer . see if there is any wires going to a sensor [if your car has it ,it will be easy to see] at the core at the radiator . look at hoses under the hood any wires that go to any thing that involves the a/c hoses disconnect and reconnect . good luck addon-------- try adding a little freon and see if it will [compressor ] kick in

Electrical System Short on 2007 BMW 528i?

I purchased this vehicle Certified Pre-Owned 3 months ago. Since then, I have had 3 instances where the battery was completely dead when I went to start the car. After the 3rd instance I requested that BMW replace the battery. 2 days ago, I awoke to find that all the lights on the car were on. They were not on when I went to bed at midnite the previous nite. Also, I left the headlamp knob in the 0 position, i.e. automatic. The battery was nearly dead: the car had lost the date and time setting and I had a series of warning messages, however it did start up. The only culprit I can think of is that the electrical system is somehow shorting due to water. In 2 of the instances, I had washed the car the prior day and drove it back in the garage.

Has anyone had a similar experience or does anyone know is this is in the realm of possibility?


Nothing new really.
Since it is still under cpo warranty most probably the repairs can be done by BMW. But take note that diagnosis under cpo is customer pay not unless the actual repair turns out to be covered by warranty
in which case the diagnosis charge is waived.
But in general electrical problems specially accessories problems are not covered by cpo (not unless the dealer does the repair under goodwill warranty). In your case I would suggest a quick look at the trunk compartment. Remove the covers and look at both the middle area and sides for presence of water or moisture. I suspect that you would find water in there, maybe even a pool of water.
When you bring it to BMW do not mention that you pressure-wash or "over-water" the car during washing. Agree to a tentative charge for diagnosis of 1 hour. Let them find out the problem. Then after diagnosis use your charms and diplomacy. Make them fix it for free. Maybe even get the help of the salesman that sold you the car.

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FloJet LF122202A Marine Automatic Demand Water Pump (1.1-GPM, 35-PSI, 12-Volt, 3.5-Amp)
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FloJet

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Stoner 95161 Invisible Glass Reach and Clean Tool
Automotive Parts and Accessories (Stoner)


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  • Includes three bonnets
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Start Your Own Car Wash and More
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