Dealers inflate the overall price of the car loan through overpriced add-on products – often sold in packages –including “GAP” insurance, vehicle service contracts, credit life and disability insurance, rust proofing, theft deterrent packages, and “window etching.” By inflating vehicle cost, the dealer is inflating the loan size. As a result, the potential loan kickback for the dealer is increased.
Yo-Yo Sales
The buyer is either convinced to enter into or unwittingly placed in a conditional sale agreement rather than a final sale. After the buyer drives the vehicle home, the dealer later claims to be unable to fund the loan at the agreed-upon terms. The buyer is required to return the car and renegotiate an often more costly loan. Often, the buyer is told that their down payment is non-refundable and/or their trade-in has already been sold.
Buy Here, Pay Here
Buy Here Pay Here (BHPH) dealerships typically finance used auto loans in-house to borrowers with no or poor credit histories. The average APR is much higher than a bank or credit union loan. BHPH dealers expect much higher default and repossession rates.
Is it a deal? Saving money on spending or impulse purchases — ROBINSON COLUMN
06.07.11
You can't open the paper lately without being told "Thou shalt Steal The Deal." Full-page, colour ads with masked models smile back at us as they have supposedly saved money on restaurants, salons, golf, and more.
Steal The Deal follows on the heels of other group buy sites, such as Groupon, Living Social, and WagJag. The premise is brilliant, even if people are actively avoiding malls to keep their budget in line. Once you sign up for one of these sites, daily email deals sneak past your mall-evading manoeuvres and land in your inbox.
Every day it's a new deal, and they really do seem like a steal at up to 90% off the regular price. The daily coupon may not be something you'd typically use, but when it is 50% to
90% off, isn't it wrong to let a deal like this go by? The problem is that 50% off something you wouldn't normally buy still has you spending an additional 50% that was not in your plan. Since it's a good deal (a steal, some would say) you just don't want to miss out.
A brief description and demonstration of applying annual rust proofing product with Lemmer high pressure airless spray equipment. By using ...
What is the best rust converter / prevention product for cars?
Mar 04, 2007 by Atlas shrugged | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I've used POR15 with subpar results. I see there is a new 3 step product called Rust Encapsulator on the market. Will this do a better job? I have a 1990 truck with rust in the usual places, but its just surface rust, not rot (yet) in most areas. I'm looking to stop it permanently, and was considering topcoating the lower body with Durabak (which is a spray in bedliner type product) once the rust is neutralized.
The truck was regularly "rustproofed" with rubberized undercoating by the previous owner which may or may not have helped matters. I figure the Durabak would be a more permanent form of undercoating since it doesn't flake off.
Any takers?
You need to get all the old undercoating off and get down to the bare metal by Sandblasting. I recommend KBS Coatings which has the most superior technologically advanced 3-step-system on the market: Klean/Blast/Seal. However, on newly sandblasted surfaces, prep products are NOT needed so you just proceed with sealing with their rust preventive paint called kBS RustSeal. RustSeal is formulated with a unique viscosity that allows it to seep deep down into the open metal pores where it cures rock hard and permanently blocks off all access to moisture & oxygen. KBS Coatings Rust Seal is superior to POR in that it has deeper adhesion ability, richer pigment qualities & unbelievable finishes, cures rock hard & watertight yet remains flexible to expand & contract, sands w/o gumming and comes in a variety of new colors...gloss black, satin (OEM) black, silver, grey, clear, oxide red, guardian green & off white.
Then I'd topcoat with Durabek or choose KBS BlackTop...their rock hard permanent automotive chassis topcoat for a final professional looking finish.
depotcopycat | Mar 04, 2007
Acid works to change the polarity of the metal, as that permanently ceases the oxidation process, but isn't easy or simple to use.
Need good Gloves etc.
Wash with water after.
Good primer then top coat done well should last well, that and Mud Flaps, as they work the best.
occluderx | Mar 04, 2007
Simple, its called Navel Jelly or Extend.
mgd6624 | Mar 04, 2007
Back when i owned a marine repair business I stumbled on to this product called OSPHO. Worked great. I later used it on cars that i was restoring and repairing for others---and still use it now. Over 25 years it has served me well.
redrepair | Mar 04, 2007
That sounds like a good idea if that bedliner stuff doesn't crack and trap the water. I think I'll try that myself on a couple of projects. The last rust converter I used was "ERF" from E.R.F. Industries in LosAngeles, California 90034 PO Box 341076 which stands for End Rust Forever. It doesn't list the ingredients on the can, and I can't seem to locate the product anymore. It seems to have worked better than any I've ever used, but it is sensitive to UltraViolet radiation.
bobweb | Mar 04, 2007
i've used the Kbs Rustseal alot. It's a moisture-cured non-porous coating that cures by drawing moisture out of the metal pores & air and (the reverse of other paints)...and is actually strengthened by repeated exposure to moisture. On humid days, this sealer dries almost as you're applying it...that's why they recommend application below 70% humidity. It's also the best rust protection for marine applications. If rustseal is properly applied on the bare metal, rust will never return even if the topcoat fails b/c The pores are locked watertight. Rustseal does have some UV sensitivity too but much better than others. But understand this, the rust protection NEVER fails...it just means the color may dull or sheen may matte (cosmetic changes only).
texanmole | Mar 04, 2007
There is a new website called www.corrosionconnection.com that has a whole section of rust and corrosion prevention for cars and trucks. It also has a whole list of products just for that purpose! Check it out, maybe it can help you
CassieA | Mar 05, 2007
Latest option/opinion on auto rustproofing. Did the "clunkers deal" now want to find rustproofing 4 it.?
Aug 08, 2009 by rusty | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Is there a newer system or product that I have yet to hear about?
About the only "rustproofing" they do from the factory is to make some parts out out of galvanized metal. The add-on from the dealer is called "undercoating" as it only involves spraying the underside of the vehicle, usually with some cheap asphalt based stuff.
A professional rustproofing involves using long wands to reach into nooks and crannies that are hard to get to otherwise, and often drilling small holes to get inside places like the rocker panels. First a penetrant and rust neutralizer is sprayed in, then a sealant. Then the holes are sealed with rubber/plastic plugs.
I'm not aware of any new technologies lately, that actually work at least. Basically, you want a good thorough job where it is sprayed in all the important places, where they use the 2 step process mentioned, and good quality materials are used.
Absent some new info I am not aware of, Ziebart seems to do as good a job as anybody around. It's their main line of work.
http://www.ziebart.com/
| Aug 08, 2009
all cars have "rust proofing" from the factory/the other from the dealer is money making scheme from the git go/wait til they get to paint sealer/hmmmmm
ken k | Aug 08, 2009
called spray body deadener step 3 paint. I want to know how long it takes to dry?
Nov 29, 2006 by colswogal1 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
company called bodytech australia. product used for soundproofing and rustproofing
Here in Canada we call it "rubberized undercoat" but in any case the dry time depends on ambient temperature, humidity and thickness of the applied coat....My advise spray several thin coats leaving 1/2 hour to dry between coats and 2-3 hours for final dry......(Flash time will be shorter in a hot and dry climate)
hangin_in_out | Nov 29, 2006
Buying a car, need help with optional products for sale at the dealership.?
May 15, 2006 by toy181 | Posted in Buying & Selling
I'm going in to purchase a new vehicle. I just want to know what type of extras people normally buy. Extended warranty? rustproofing? life insurance? disability insurance? What should I buy? and are there other things that they will try to sell me. What did you get when you bought your car?
After you buy the car don't get sucked into buying anything else. If you want rust proofing get it done at a independent shop, not the dealer. In fact, most dealers get rust proofing done at independent shops and the dealer just jacks up the price. Don't get scotch guarding for the interior. you can buy a can of scotch guard and spray it on yourself for 1/10th of the price. Dealers make most of their profits in after sales products and services. The dealer is the middle man between the customer and the supplier.
The only thing worth looking at is an extended warranty but it may not be needed depending on the vehicle you bought and how long you intended on keeping it. I have friends that work in the F & I offices at dealers and they sell these products for well over 5 times what they're worth. Don't buy anything!!!
Biasi's fully insulated Hydras cylinders complement its boilers rangeMade from Duplex stainless steel and featuring a strong rust-proof steel case, these products offer outstanding corrosion resistance and durability.
Any components that are not stainless steel are made of inert plastic, so as to completely eliminate any potential to cause contamination to the product it
Shock Tactics from R&G RacingTo cope with this extreme environment and to expel moisture, the Shocktube features six 5mm rustproof eyelets inserted into the neoprene skin at the top,
The technology uses galvanized steel which is rust proof, mold resistant and waterproof and the steel carries 50 years (extendible) warranty against any
Non-stainless steel components are made from inert plastic to completely eliminate any potential contamination to the product. All units are Australian-made
Any components that are not stainless steel are made of inert plastic, so as to completely eliminate any potential to cause contamination to the product it
Shock Tactics from R&G RacingTo cope with this extreme environment and to expel moisture, the Shocktube features six 5mm rustproof eyelets inserted into the neoprene skin at the top,
The technology uses galvanized steel which is rust proof, mold resistant and waterproof and the steel carries 50 years (extendible) warranty against any
