It isn't often that car-makers will wait almost a generation before launching the next version of one of their cars, yet that's precisely what Volkswagen did with its Scirocco. And the latest incarnation takes all that was good about the original and brings it bang up to date.
To delve into Scirocco's history, work on the car began in the early 1970s, and it used the same basic platform and underpinnings that would be used by the Golf and Jetta. Styled by Giorgetto Giugario, that original Scirocco, and a face-lifted second version, stayed in production until the early 1990s, when it was discontinued. In 2008, a new Scirocco was relaunched with a new shape - a two-door shell, front wheel drive, lowered and sportier suspension - and was very well received.
A lot of it stays intact in the latest model, but the fun part is what lies beneath: under the bonnet is a new version of the group's four-cylinder turbo engine, here in the exceptionally efficient TSI guise, driving through a
Test Drive: Dodge Journey has surprises, disappointments
24.05.12
The Dodge Journey , a midsize crossover SUV loosely based on the previous-generation Chrysler minivans, was included in that Chrysler-palooza, but didn't benefit as much as some other vehicles.
The substitution of the 3.6-liter Pentastar V-6 for a cranky older engine was the headline for the 2011 Journey models. For 2012, it's the American Value Package — surgical trims, to hear Chrysler tell it — that push the starting price down to $19,795 with shipping.
VIDEO: James R. Healey takes Dodge Journey for a spin PHOTOS: More views of the Dodge Journey
While even that basic model has a surprising number of standard features, we're skeptical that its four-cylinder engine and four-speed automatic would handle a two-ton SUV.
But no AVP models made it to the company's test fleet. We ran out of patience and wound up testing two fancier models, a $31,715 Crew with front-wheel drive and a V-6, and a $26,685 SXT V-6 FWD. The latter, Chrysler says, is similar to what 55% of Journey buyers pick.
liquid CPU and GPU cooling, and advanced chassis control. The Vantage ALC is upgradeable with the Maestro ESP chassis control software that also ...
I am putting a 93 4.6 32 v into an 88 T-brd besides the computer and tranny will I need more out of old car?
Aug 21, 2007 by mach1shotgun | Posted in Ford
my T-bird is on the F chassis of the 88 mustang are ther engine and tranny mounts that will allow straight bolt up. and as for my cruise control, and speedo will they operate, or will I have to have wiring altered, and by whom, thanks for any help, no amatuers please, I am a pro, but am unfamiliar with this routine thank you
You didn't specify the donor vehicle, but being a '93 with a 4.6L DOHC 32 valve V8, I'll answer your question to the best of my ability under the assumption you are referring to a Lincoln Mark VIII. Nothing is impossible, but for this particular swap, you would probably be better off pirating and modifying the ENTIRE exhaust system from a '96 & up Mustang Cobra, due to the fact that the Mark VIII's exhaust system utilizes a very restrictive setup designed to fit around the oddball rear independent suspension setup that is used on the Mark VIII. Also, the driver side exhaust manifold is one-piece with the catalytic converter for that bank of cylinders. You would also need the ENTIRE engine harness INCLUDING the speed control amplifier/servo/cable assembly to keep it operative. Regarding the speedometer, I wasn't able to access a service publication on a vehicle that old, so I wouldn't be able to tell you with 100% certainty whether or not it is cable operated. The best advice I can give you, is whatever the setup, be it a VSS or cable operated, if you use the same number of DRIVE (trans output shaft) and DRIVEN (VSS plastic gear), during the swap, your speedo will continue to operate accurately. Hope this helps.
Ford Goddess | Aug 21, 2007
you will need the complete harness and fuel lines / pump and a clue how to do it.
Josh S | Aug 21, 2007
Transmission, clutch, chassis question!?
Jul 20, 2009 by bnig8 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have a 1986 Camaro, 305 H.O. V8 with a T-5 5 speed out of a 94 firebird, 650 holley carb, zoom clutch. Recently in ANY gear past roughly 2000 rpms, the car seems to "slip" out of gear (shifter never moving) and the rpms race but no acceleration, then once letting of the gas it will get "back into gear" and i'll have acceleration, but easily slipping back out. In 5th gear, basically all rpms have this effect. Additionally, in any gear, if i slam on the pedal, i get terrible wheel hop and go nowhere.
Is this a clutch issue? Slave cylinder? Tranny?
Any help would be much appreciated; again, it's an 86 with a pure mechanical engine, no computer or electrical control.
Thanks in advance.
Clutch is gone.
Alex E | Jul 20, 2009
The clutch is slipping.
AsYLum dRiVeR | Jul 20, 2009
The clutch isn't gripping anymore. It is almost completely worn out. Get a new clutch.
don r | Jul 20, 2009
Did you try adjusting your shift linkage and check for worn parts.
The wheel hop sounds like you need traction bars on your car the springs wind up and you get wheel hop.
It would also be a good idea to check your motor and tranny mounts.
the problem could also be in your tranny.in your syncro rings or bearings.
hope this helps.
daniel b | Jul 20, 2009
sounds like damaged syncros but I wonder if the problem isnt just that your not fully able to engage each gear do to a problem in the shifter. I had the same thing with a super t-10 but only in second gear. wheel hop is caused when the rear springs whip. the answer is possibly just a good set of performance rear shocks and set up.the clutch woul have a vibration when pressed and usually scatters. the high revs and no action sounds like the clutch is slipping. lots of different issues to chase here. slave and clutch master both would cause grinding to engage in gear.
CARL G H | Jul 20, 2009
i just put a new alternator and a new battery on my car, and it still wont stay on. can it be the computer?
Jul 31, 2009 by tre | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
a while before that i changed the radio, and i accidentally let some wires touch the chassis and i blew a couple fuses, i changed those, and then it rained a couple days after that and i opened my door to get in and water managed to get into the door panel and i noticed the rear view mirror control switch was sizzling and smoking. So i unplugged the wire adapter that goes into the switch. shortly after that i noticed the battery light was on while driving, indicating that the alternator isnt charging the battery, and soon as i made it home the car died. every time i charge the battery up, it'll stay on and then you'll see all the interior and dashboard lights dim out, then about a minute or 2 after that the car cuts off. what could cause it to do this? the car is a 1990 lincoln town car
listen to what you just said about the water and a sizzling you definitely have a short no other explanation needed as soon as i read that i was sure this has happened 2 me in the past tell mechanic to check the wires leading to were the water got in and you seen the sizzle you might have a spliced wire or just open the doors interior panel and do a self search. to get the short fixed i highly recommend you get a expert
vinnyhonn | Jul 31, 2009
you have a short somewhere,probably from as many times as you burned wires somewhere some are melted to the chassis ground.
moe h | Jul 31, 2009
I could be the computer. A short can be working on your engine.
However, it could be a loose battery connector as well. Make sure when they replaced the battery, they tightened the connectors. If they are loose, you could be losing the connection.
If you got a rebuilt alternator, it might be a dud.
Do you have a plug in battery charger? Charge the darn thing, take it in to a mechanic and have them run a scan on it. AutoZone's will do it for free. If it says bad alternator or bad battery, take it back to the place you got it and see if they'll replace you're dud..
Something isn't working right.
Lou G | Jul 31, 2009
If by "won't stay on" you mean the vehicle won't stay running, the voltage is dropping below the level necessary to keep it running (computer controls, fuel pump and so fourth.)
With the engine running at 1200-1500 rpm's, the battery voltage should read 13.8-14.2 volts, if it doesn't, the charging system isn't working.
LeAnne | Jul 31, 2009
car audio class in college?
Jun 18, 2009 by Omar Bravo fan # 1 | Posted in Car Audio
i'm going to college and have to choose classes and am interested in car audio learning i know that there are special schools that you go to like mobile dynamics and was wondering is there a course that will teach me about car audio how to install and everything. its a community college and there are automotive classes like automotive technology, automotive engine, automotive brakes, suspension, automotive electrical and electrical systems and i think it maybe electrical and electricall system but on the description it says it goes overs the fundamentals of automotive electrical and electronic systems including service and repair of starting, charging, and other chassis electrical systems. Students are introduced to computer controlled systems. does any of this mean they will teach about car audio.
Doubtful...more than likely it's limited to car electrical components only...like the battery, alternator, starter, spark plugs, and the wring, sensors, and actuators that make the vehicle work. Maybe you can find a job can as a car auto installer in the summer or part time while your at school...nothing like on the job training to teach you everything you need to know. That's how I learned.
Steven W | Jun 18, 2009
Can You explain what this means? I am trying to learn more about motorcycles and engines.?
May 07, 2006 by NyCz BlK BoI | Posted in Motorcycles
Engine Type 599cc liquid-cooled inline four-cylinder
Bore and Stroke 67.0mm x 42.5mm
Compression Ratio 12.0:1
Valve Train DOHC; four valves per cylinder
Carburetion Dual Stage Fuel Injection (DSFI)
Ignition Computer-controlled digital transistorized with three-dimensional mapping
DRIVE TRAIN
Transmission Close-ratio six-speed
Final Drive #525 O-ring-sealed chain
CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKES
Front Suspension 41.0mm inverted HMAS cartridge fork with spring-preload, rebound and compression-damping adjustability; 4.7-inch travel
Rear Suspension Unit Pro-Link HMAS single shock with spring-preload, rebound and compression-damping adjustability; 5.1-inch travel
Front Brakes Dual radial-mounted four-piston calipers with 310.0mm discs
Rear Brake Single 220.0mm disc
Front Tire 120/70ZR-17 radial
Rear Tire 180/55ZR-17 radial
DIMENSIONS
Rake 24.0 degrees
Trail 95.0mm
it is a honda cbr 600 but i want to know what borestroke means etc.
ENGINE SIZE
-599cc is the size of the motor. The # is just rounded off to 600 (cbr600) for convience. Multiply the bore, times the stroke, multiplied by how many cylinders the engine has.
-Bore is the diameter of the cylinder, that the piston is in.
-Stroke is is the length that the pistion travels from top to bottom.
-Compression ratio is how much pressure is created when the volume of fuel/air in the cylinder is compressed when the piston is at the top of it's stroke.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression _ratio
-Carburation DSFI - A carburator mixes fuel and air and regulates the amount that goes into the engine to create a different size explosion in the cyl. to force the piston to move at different speeds. The vacumm in the engine sucks fuel from the carb. Fuel injection squrits fuel into the engine, and is regulated by a computer, which gets it's info from different sensors such as a throttle position sensor. Dual stage just means that different amounts of fuel are injected at different times.
-The computerized stuff is just that. A computer determines from sensors how much fuel to send to the motor at different times and how much air is to be added to the fuel and when to fire the spark plugs. Oxygine, throttle position, camshaft speed, exaust gas sensors.
DRIVE TRAIN
-Six speed is, it has 6 gears 1st 2nd 3rd etc. Cars usually have 4.
-Close ratio means when you shift to the next gear, the motor doesn't have to exert a lot of energy, to get that gear up to top speed. Like on a ten speed bike, the gear cluster on the rear wheel, it's a smooth transition when shifting to the next gear. If it wasn't a close ratio trani, it'd be like shifting from 1st to 5th.
CHASSI
-41mm is the diameter of the fork tube. The larger the diameter, the less chance of it flexing onder pressure/road bumps.
-HAMS, brand name
-Cartrage fork. A fork tube slides in and out of a large casing. Think of a ball point pen. The outer casing is the cartrage. The tube of ink (fork tube)is inside the cartrage and slides in and out of it.
-Another type of front suspension is a springer front end. Nothing slides in and out of anything. The forks just bounce against external springs.
-The cartrage fork has it's spring inside the assembly.
-Sprin preload. You can adjust the tension on the spring, to make the suspension softer or stiffer.
-Rebound dampening. The inside of the fork is partialy filled with oil. When the fork is fully compressed and it starts to rebound (fully extend), the fork is prevented from rebounding by their being holes on the internal parts that oil has to pass through. Changing the size of those holes will allow the oil to pass through at different rates which determines how fast/slow the forks return to their fully extended position.
-Compression dampening is the same, but just slows down/speeds up the time it takes to compress the forks.
-4.7-inch travel. How far the suspension will move. If you hit a bump, the front wheel can go up 4.7". Then there's no suspension left. It'd be like hitting a bump without any suspension.
-Pro-Link. Some bikes have 2 shock absorbers in the rear and some have one like your CBR600. Pro-link is Hondas brand name of the linkage system which connects the shock to the swing arm. Kawasaki calls their linkage system "UNI-TRAK".
-Brakes. 310mm is the diameter of the brake disc.
-Dual means 2 (one on each side of the wheel).
-Caliper is the mechinisim that squeezes the brake pads against the disc to stop.
-Four piston. When you apply the brakes, brake fluid is forced into the caliper and pushes a piston out. That piston pushes the brake pad against the disc. The more pistons there are, the less pressure that is required to move them. With the same amount of force on the brake pedal/lever, a caliper with multiple pistons will apply more braking force.
- Radial mounted. The pistons aren't lined up 4 in a row, they'er arked, to equal the radias of the disc.
-Tire sizes. The first # is the width of the tire. The second is the sidewall hieght (from the outside of the tire to the rim). The third # is the diameter of the rim of the wheel. The letters mean the speed rating of the tire. (at what speed the tire's integrity will hold up until it starts to flex or lose traction).
-Radial - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_tire
DIMENSIONS
-Trail & Rake - http://www.jeris-springer.com/raketrail. html
That'll be $125 for the lesson. No checks please. LOL
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