BEIJING - China Guangdong Nuclear Power Corp (CGNPC) moved closer to gaining control of Kalahari Minerals PLC, which holds an indirect interest in the world's fourth-largest uranium mine, the Husab project in Namibia.
That's after Rio Tinto PLC - Kalahari's fourth-largest shareholder - agreed to sell its approximately 11.1 percent stake in the UK company to CGNPC.
CGNPC Uranium Resources Co, the resources arm of CGNPC, declined to comment.
"CGNPC has moved closer to its target," said Monica Sun, senior associate at the international energy group at Herbert Smith LLP, which advises on cross-border energy and resource deals. "This is a significant deal for CGNPC, as the seller controls abundant uranium resources," Sun said.
In January, CGNPC and its partner China-Africa Development Fund said they had secured a 30.8 percent stake in the London-listed Kalahari. Rio Tinto's shareholding would put the partnership's combined stakes at roughly 42 percent. However, the bid must
Nissan South Africa Releases the 2012 Model Year Nissan GT-R
24.05.12
When it was launched, the iconic GT-R created a new type of super car. Performance and handling were exceptional, of course, but more importantly the car’s potential was accessible to all drivers under all conditions. It was greeted with universal praise but Nissan’s policy of constant development means the GT-R continues to evolve.
The latest version, of which the first orders will be delivered in South Africa in February 2012, is the most efficient yet. It offers even greater performance but this is allied to improved economy and lower emissions to provide further excitement to drivers and passengers.
As well as more power, the 2012 MY GT-R has a newly developed asymmetric suspension which compensates for greater weight on the driver’s side in RHD models, enhanced transmission ‘feel’ and a stronger body for extra rigidity and ever better handling.
Audi A6 1998 - 2004 Front Lower Control Arm Replacing - How To
In this video, Bentley Publishers technical editor Nick Czerula along with Ric Morin from Motorcar Alternatives illustrates how to replace front ...
Front Sway bar tension question while changing lower control arm?
Mar 15, 2010 by Dave | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have to change the lower control arm- drivers side '01 maxima- I need it to NOT have any tension when I am swapping out the lower control arm (which has a bushing for the sway bar). Do both wheels have to be off the ground to eliminate the stored energy in this 1" thick bar or does it not matter?
Does not matter...The stored energy is when the strut is loaded (weight of the car is compressing the assembly) The control arm when sway bar is unbolted has no pressure on it, so itis safe to unbolt....
bill (dollar bill) | Mar 15, 2010
You should unhook the anti sway bar on both ends and swing it out of the way. It will make changing the control arm much easier.
military supporter | Mar 15, 2010
both wheels need to be off ground to release tension on sway bar.
Berni | Mar 15, 2010
Is my lower control arm completely necessary?
Dec 24, 2006 by schwiggity | Posted in Safety
I drive a 1994 Olds Eighty-Eight LSS. Last week when i was backing out of my driveway, one of the lower control arms on my front drivers side wheel rusted completely off the frame. This is not a surprise, as my car has been rotting for quite awhile, but I just want to know of it's needed for safety concerns. Yes, I know the car will not ride as smoothly, or as "together", but is it a safety concern? I only plan to drive the car around to look for a new one and get to work, which is only a few miles away. It's time for a new car anyway, so repairing it is not a #1 issue. Thank you.
On strut type suspsensions, I suppose it's possible the car may remain in a semi-drivable state with no lower control arm, but a car with no lower control arm can do truly terrifying things. Like steer itself to one side - hard - when you hit the brakes.
Or have the whole thing collapse and grind to a halt on the pavement, as right now you have only somewhere between one and four bolts holding that wheel upright, carrying stresses they were never designed to take. And those bolts are likely running through a thinner piece of sheet metal than where your lower control arm attached.
If you intend to drive this thing until the wheels fall off, chances are you are only one good hit of the brakes or one really hard swerve away from that actually happening.
Mad Scientist Matt | Dec 25, 2006
lets see if it is called a control arm and it has rusted away and now you want to drive the car to look for a new one is it impotent, or a safety concern?????
do this my friend drive the car to the next jail and let them lock you up because if you have an accident with that car in that condition that is where you will end up anyway.......
YES IT IS A SAFETY CONCERN..............
red | Dec 24, 2006
its an absolute necessity.park it or tow it ,don't drive it
doug b | Dec 24, 2006
No it is not safe. It is very necessary. Is the wheel leaning in at the top? I'm surprised you can still drive it. You have no control over the wheel. It's going to do what it wants to. You'd be better off calling a junk yard and have them pick it up for scrap than to try to trade it in or drive it. Take the money they give you and buy another car. The car is a accident waiting to happen.
keijo47 | Dec 24, 2006
rember the exploding pinto ? they saved $3 per car , these things are cost engineered so tight they fight over nickles before they get to production . the lower control arm is about $120 (their cost), it would not be there if it was not absolutely needed , you are an accident waiting to happen , that thing should be condemned.
sterling m | Dec 24, 2006
I am going to disagree with everyone. I say drive it. At some point the wheel will actually fall off, that's when you should stop driving it.
Peter Piper of the 1980s | Dec 25, 2006
Duh...I think you better check your suspension again. You won't drive five feet without a lower control arm.
CowboyBill | Dec 25, 2006
1999 Mercury Cougar Drivers Side Lower Control arm?
Jan 24, 2008 by Ralph | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Has anyone ever replace the lower control arm on a mercury cougar (drivers-front). I have a V6 engine and it looks like the engine actually has to be lifted to remove one of the cotrol arm mounting bolts. Has anyone ever done this?
yes, you will have to raise the motor.
On all models, remove the front motor mount, Mark the position of the right engine mount, remove 3 right engine to munt bolts. remove one right engine mount to body nut. On all models hold the strut shaft with an 8 mm allen wrench, loosen top retaining nut 5 turns. Raise vehicle, remove ball joint to steering knuckle pinch bolt. seperate control arm ball joints from steering knuckle. Do NOT damage ball joint seal. Remove pinch bolt attaching steering knuckle to strut. Slide steering knuckle up on strut, Move transaxle to gain access to control arm nuts and bolts. remove 2 nuts and bolts and attaching control arm to subframe. Lifting up control arm remove.
Now this to mark the motor mount because you are supposed to use a powertrain alignment guage when putting back together. if not you can bind the motor in the unibody and make for a shaky ride.
that drivers side lower control arm calls for 4.3 hours where as the passenger side calls for 1.3 hours. So you can see what your in for.
BTW these instructions are taken straight from the Ford repair manual.
richard | Jan 24, 2008
Is My Front Lower Control Arm Bent???
Dec 20, 2007 by Dan | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I had my car towed a couple weeks ago when my engine blew and I remember the tow truck driver using the metal hooks on his tow truck to pull my car up. He hooked it up behind the wheel somewhere and I'm assuming it must be the control arms...
The problems im having right now is that my car pulls to the right when I brake and also does a quick "twitch" when I brake.
When I am stopped and let go of the brake, the wheels twitch also. This can be felt in the steering wheel and be seen on the outside via the wheel moving. The wheel "twitches" to the right and then goes back straight. This is only momentarily and happens the very moment I let go of the brakes AND when I initially apply the brakes while driving.
My question is: Is it a bent front control arm or maybe a ball joint problem???
Any idea on how many labor hours would be involved?
What are usually the symptoms of a bent front control arm or ball joint problem?
The car is a 2002 BMW M3 Convertible...
While I doubt Mr. Towboy is going to admit it, he probably gave a good tug to the lower control arms and seperated them from the bushing at the frame. These bushings have a hard enough time staying put without Toby Towboy ripping them out. Labor hours? If you go to BMW you are gonna get ripped off. Their policy is to go by warranty labor times, and multiply that by 1.5, which puts them about 2.5 times any labor in a national labor guide. Legal but sneaky, they do nothing more than mark up their own labor really. You already described the symptoms of the bent or broken control arm or ball joint. Now to get Toby to admit he did it, and you are in business. Same thing happened to my rear trailing arms on a 2001 Impala when the flat bed came and got it.
texasm | Dec 20, 2007
How do you replace a lower control arm on at 2002 toyota camry?
Nov 11, 2008 by blainewinfield | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I hydroplaned into a curb yesterday and blew out my front drivers side tire. Replaced the tire and discovered that my steering was well off. I have taken the car to two separate places and received estimates of 750 and 700. I looked on line though and I can buy the control arm itself for about 75 bucks. My dad is very mechanically inclined, do you think between the two of us we could change it? Or would I be better off having it done professionally?
1 Remove front wheel and support vehicle securely with jackstands.
2. Disconnect the stabalizer bar link from the control arm.
3. Remove the balljoint retaining bolt and nuts
(use prybar to disconnect the control arm from the steering knuckle)
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the front of the control arm to the engine cradle.
5. Remove the bolt and nut that attach the rear of the control arm to the
engine cradle.
6. Remove the control arm..
Step 1: mark a point on the ATV's A Arm and a corresponding point on the lower part of the frame with a marker or pencil. It is important to refer to these
Drivers seat bolster is showing signs of wear, well,it is 18yrs old(Quoted £85 to repair). Drivers side lower front arm needs replaced (bush Knackered). and more »
With an active-return steering and good on-centre feel, the car can go as fast as a driver dares to take it. Here, 27 years of refinement shines through. and more »
The child escaped unhurt but Mr Bland, 22, suffered two broken legs, a broken right arm, fractured pelvis and a ruptured spleen. The driver of the Rover,
Step 1: mark a point on the ATV's A Arm and a corresponding point on the lower part of the frame with a marker or pencil. It is important to refer to these
His right arm had a cut 8 inches long and 3 inches wide. He injured his lower back and sustained a 4-inch contusion on his right leg.
The child escaped unhurt but Mr Bland, 22, suffered two broken legs, a broken right arm, fractured pelvis and a ruptured spleen. The driver of the Rover,
